One Hell of a Trip - A Travel Consultant's personal review of Adventure Canada's Iceland to Greenland, In the Wake of the Vikings

Zodiac in front of glacier, East Greenland

When I first stepped aboard Adventure Canada’s In the Wake of the Vikings expedition, I knew I’d be in for an adventure — but the following days unfolded in ways that I could have never expected.

We were setting out from Iceland to Greenland, following a route steeped in Norse history and fringed by some of the most striking landscapes in the North Atlantic. Having travelled extensively, and having visited Greenland before, I was still surprised by how the country manages to enchant and surprise with every visit. This voyage would be no exception.

This is my personal review of Adventure Canada's Iceland to Greenland, In the Wake of the Vikings. All photos are my own and mostly taken with an iPhone 10, with the odd one taken with a 600mm telephoto lens.

Aka lighting the qulliq, a traditional Inuit oil lamp

Calm Seas and Engaging Learning

The first stretch across the open ocean from Reykjavik to Greenland's east coast took the better part of 48 hours. It was surprisingly calm; the gentle rocking of the ship made for peaceful sleeps. Still, the quiet hours before dawn were restless for me. By 5:30 a.m., I found myself awake and out on the bridge, watching rain streak gently down the windows. The sky was a muted grey, softening the sharp outlines of the ship’s bow cutting through the calm water. Most passengers lingered indoors, seeking refuge from the drizzle, but the day soon found its rhythm.

Mid-morning, the expedition programme began, and it quickly became clear this trip wasn’t about idle cruising. Lectures unfolded with a steady stream of fascinating topics - from the enormous North Atlantic whales that we might see to the rich traditions of Greenland’s Inuit communities. What struck me was the attentive focus in the room; these weren’t passive talks but invitations to understand the region’s complex cultural and natural history.

My contribution to the photography workshop

You never feel like you’re simply “passing time” on the ship. Every day offers a chance to deepen your connection to this incredible part of the world. And it's the level of engagement with the local culture that makes Adventure Canada stand out from its competitors.

Afternoons often brought workshops or smaller gatherings. One photography session challenged us to look beyond the sweeping panoramas and focus instead on small, intimate details — the curve of a life ring against the endless ocean, the way raindrops clung like tiny lenses on the deck’s railings.

Many passengers found inspiration on deck, capturing vivid shots of these small moments that often go unnoticed in the shadow of glaciers and mountains. Elsewhere, some gathered for a solo travellers meet-up, while others sought quiet refuge in the ship’s sauna — a warm sanctuary against the chill outside.

Dinner on board

Evenings on board were lively, a balance of anticipation and relaxation. Expedition briefings outlined the next day’s plans, often with Adventure Canada's team member sharing insights or anecdotes. Dinners featured locally-inspired dishes — fresh, hearty fare that fueled our community of travellers. One night, Tom Kovacs, a crew member with an extraordinary memory for names, led a spirited dance party with the crew. Watching the ship transform from lecture hall to lively dance floor was a reminder of how travel, in all its forms, is ultimately about connection.

Orca breaching, East Greenland

Wildlife and Ice: Nature’s Spectacle

As we ventured into Greenlandic waters, the wildlife sightings deepened our sense of place. As we neared the coast, we reached the junction where warm ocean currents from Mexico meet the icy waters flowing from Greenland’s glaciers, which produces an upwelling of nutrient-rich waters. The change was immediate and dramatic. Seabirds gathered thickly overhead, wheeling and diving with excitement. Then came a pod of orcas, breaching and tail-slapping in what felt like a playful display.

Truth be told, despite an encouraging start, you don't go to Greenland for wildlife - there are better places for that. Greenland is more of an allround polar destination - some wildlife, lots of birds, tremendous landscapes and a strong culture.

Ice began to pepper the bays as we approached — from small bergy bits to monumental icebergs, each a floating sculpture made by wind and time.

Rocks and ice like an A.Y. Jackson painting

Zodiac rides became our primary mode of exploration, each landing an adventure. Some drivers were chatty and good-natured, swapping stories and jokes, while others, like Julie from Quebec, were consummate professionals, guiding us through icy passages with skill, imprating knowledge as we went along.

On one zodiac trip, the muted colours of glaciers and bare rock reminded me of an A.Y. Jackson (of the Group of Seven) painting — grey-blues and earthy browns framed by towering peaks.

History Carved in Stone

One afternoon, we landed on a remote beach and hiked to a centuries-old fox trap, made from rocks and likely built by the Thule people, the ancestors of modern Inuit. The ingenuity of such structures — designed to capture foxes alive — left me in awe. Around us, wild mosses and tiny Arctic flowers splashed colour across the rocky tundra, a vibrant contrast to the icy bays and dark basalt mountains.

Aka with fox trap

It was here that Aka, an Inuk woman and member of our expedition team, shared a deeply personal conversation about pride, ancestors, and her connection to the land. It wasn’t part of a scheduled talk but a heartfelt moment that lingered, a reminder of the living culture beneath the ancient landscapes.

History and heritage felt woven into every corner of Greenland. In the remote Lindenow Fjord, we explored archaeological sites — ancient food caches, cairns, ruins of sod houses, and scattered graves. Each artefact told a story of resilience and survival in a land both harsh and beautiful. The archaeological walks brought those stories vividly to life, with quiet moments spent spotting birds such as the fleeting snow bunting.

Lindenow Fjord, East Greenland

Despite the light drizzle, the mood was warm, buoyed by shared discovery and occasional laughter, like when I found myself unexpectedly hip-deep in a hidden creek.

Slow, short landings

While I thought this was one hell-of-a-trip, in the best sense of the word, there was some room for improvement.  With 179 passengers on board, zodiac landings were organized into six colour groups. This was supposed to keep things running smoothly, but it also sometimes meant less time ashore as you had to wait your turn.  As a result, some zodiac trips felt a bit rushed — not only because of the group divisions, but also due to the need to stay on schedule as we moved between destinations.

This was however the last year Adventure Canada was using the Ocean Endeavour - the reason I am not saying much about the ship itself. I hope that with the introduction of smaller ships next year, Ocean Victory and Ocean Nova, this will all be a thing of the past.

Prince Christian Sound

Rounding Greenland's tip

Approaching Cape Farewell, Greenland’s southernmost point, the weight of history settled over us. This treacherous stretch of sea - perhaps the name says it all - had claimed many ships, including some from the fleet of Erik the Red, the first Norseman to settle Greenland.

To ride out a storm, we took shelter in Igutsaat Fjord, a seldom-visited passage filled with ice and flanked by towering glaciers. Early risers gathered on deck to watch the ship’s slow progress into this icy wilderness, the mountains rising steep and close enough to almost touch.

The following morning, at an unearthly hour, we entered Prince Christian Sound, a hidden, narrow passage that allows ships to sail from east to west Greenland, bypassing the treacherous seas around Cape Farewell.  The storm had blown itself out and by dawn, the fjord revealed itself in all its grandeur — steep mountains plunging into the water, streaked with countless waterfalls, small icebergs drifting lazily past. A side valley opened to reveal a glacier flowing like a wild river of ice, more raw and remote than anything I’ve seen. It was one of the most unforgettable moments of the trip.

Hot springs on Uunartoq Island

Norse Greenland

Later that day, we took zodiacs to Uunartoq Island, home to hot springs where Erik the Red reputedly bathed. Settling into the warm waters, surrounded by grassy slopes blanketed with heather and buttercups, was almost reverent. The sense of walking through layers of history — the Norse settlers, their monasteries and farms, now vanished — was tangible. Interpretive stations shared Norse sagas alongside Inuit archaeology, offering a layered glimpse of a land shaped by many stories.

Looking down on the church at Hvalsey

Hvalsey, the site of one of the best-preserved Norse churches, was another highlight. Arriving early, I wandered through the ruins, the thin morning fog lending a ghostly quality to the grass and stone. Hare bells dotted the grass, while small birds busied themselves with nesting in the brief Arctic summer. The quietness of the place spoke volumes about time and change.

Adventure Canada team heroically defending their goal

In the colourful town of Qaqortoq, we were met with a different energy. A young Inuit guide offered insights into local life, government, and education, while a spontaneous football game on an artificial pitch connected travellers with locals in a moment of joyful camaraderie.

That evening, dinner conversations deepened my understanding of Inuit and First Nations culture, enriched by stories from fellow passengers from Port Hardy and Pond Inlet. The night ended with an Inuit cultural performance of throat singing and traditional sports — an intimate celebration of living traditions. I even won a leg wrestling challenge, a small victory no doubt helped by years of cycling.

Hiking at Brattahlíð

The echoes of history continued at Brattahlíð, the site of Erik the Red’s estate in southwest Greenland. I chose a hike led by Julie, walking the shores of Eirik’s Fjord spotting ravens and a white-tailed eagle along the way.

Replica of Thjodhild's church, Brattahlíð

The replicas of Thjodhild’s Church and a Norse longhouse brought saga tales vividly to life. The stories of Erik and his wife, especially her steadfast refusal to share a bed with him until the church was built, added a touch of humour to the sense of ancient endurance.

After a climb to the Leif Erikson statue and a quick museum visit, I returned to the ship for a well-earned sauna.

Rugged hikes & city contrasts

Paamiut brought new adventures — a choice of hikes, birding, and geology walks, all with polar bear safety in mind. I opted for the strenuous hike, with incredible vistas my reward. The climb through soft tundra to a serene tarn, surrounded by rushing streams and rugged peaks, revealed a landscape both fragile and wild.

Hiking in Paamiut

Our guide, Laura from British Columbia, carried a shotgun, a sober reminder of the wilderness we navigated.

From a ridge, the fjord stretched below like a painted panorama. Though swarmed by bugs on our return, the day’s sights stayed with me well into the evening, when conversations over dinner touched on passion and discovery. It struck me then how travel is really about connecting — to places, to people, and to ourselves - and about discovery - of places, of cultures and landscapes, and of one self.

Old Nuuk, Greenland's capital

Nuuk, Greenland’s capital, felt like a crossroads between past and future. Before disembarkation I attended a talk on Greenlandic youth by Nanna, one of the Inuit educators, and I joined a beading workshop, crafting a necklace for my daughter.

Later, I wandered the town on foot, drawn especially to the National Museum’s Norse exhibits. The permafrost had preserved tools and even the scent of stables, offering a haunting glimpse of history frozen in time.

An unexpected delight came with a Greenlandic tapas menu — musk ox sausage, smoked reindeer, salmon tartare — offered at the cultural centre.

Fjord of Eternity, Greenland

Back on the ship, a talent show featured a stunning piano medley by the head of housekeeping, reminding me how much heart and spirit travelled with us.

Glacier Majesty, a Polar Plunge and Bittersweet Goodbyes

Our voyage culminated in the dramatic Fjord of Eternity, known as Evighedsfjorden in Danish and Kangerlussuatsiaq in Greenlandic, where a calving glacier dropped blue ice into the water below and the air was alive with kittiwakes and murres.

Doing the polar plunge

The polar plunge that afternoon was both bracing and exhilarating — the water surprisingly warmer than an early June swim in Lake Ontario.

The following barbecue on deck felt like a celebration of everything this trip had been: wild, beautiful, and deeply human. The sun beamed down on us and we lingered over good food and wine, admiring the scenery all around us.

BBQ on deck

The next morning was departure morning - always bittersweet. Packing my gear, sharing final laughs with new friends, I felt the familiar tug of leaving a place that had become unexpectedly close.

Adventure Canada’s team handled the logistics with effortless efficiency, and even the live music as we waited to disembark seemed tinged with melancholy. Standing on deck, I let my thoughts drift — sadness at parting Greenland and fellow travellers, but also excitement to return home.

The low-down

This voyage was more than a trip; it was an immersion into a land where mountains, tundra and glaciers dominate the scenery, where history breathes through every valley and fjord, where culture is lived daily despite the harshest conditions, and where connection is the greatest discovery of all. It truly was the adventure of a lifetime.

For anyone drawn to Greenland, In the Wake of the Vikings is a journey that offers not just sights, but cultural immersion and stories — stories that stay with you long after the ship sails away.

If you’re curious about embarking on this or a similar expedition, please reach out. I’m happy to share my firsthand experience and help you plan a trip that matches your interests and pace. Greenland is waiting — and it’s more accessible than you might think.

Through Prince Christian Sound, south Greenland