The three republics straddling the Caucasus in the former Soviet Union, Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan, have much in common, yet are each very different indeed. Georgia and Armenia share an ancient Christian culture, whereas the population of Azerbaijan is overwhelmingly Muslim. Georgia offers a huge variety of landscapes, rich culture and incredible mountain vistas; resilient Armenia is home to a plethora of monasteries and monuments; Azerbaijan, the 'Land of Fire' meanwhile, lies at a crossroads of empires, a unique country rushing headlong into the future.
Read on to find out about the highlights of Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia.
No matter where you go in this region, history is everywhere. From the old towns in the three capitals, through the empires of the Achaemenids, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Seljuks, Timurids , Ottomans, Mongols, Russian czars and Soviets, each has left its imprint in the form of ruins, castles, temples, mosques and churches.
Baku, Azerbijan's capital
Starting in the east, Azerbaijan's capital Baku is a city where old meets new, a city running headlong into the future. Wander around the fortified Old Town and put your map or phone away - just wander and see what you might discover next. Climb the ancient Maiden’s Tower for views over the town and bay and visit the Palace of the Shirvanshahs dynasty. In the new town, witness how a steady influx of oil money has led to a building frenzy resulting in some jaw-dropping architecture.
Into Azerbaijan
Not far from Baku, Qobustan is one the world's largest open-air archaeological sites, a World Heritage site famous for its ancient petroglyphs and even a Roman inscription. The area is also known for its bubbling mud volcanoes.
Travelling west towards the Georgian border, you will reach Sheki, once a thriving market town. It has a palace complex with magnificent frescoes and stained glass. Sheki and nearby mountain villages offer many local craft workshops as well.
While in Azerbaijan, why not try plov prepared with saffron-covered rice and served with various herbs and greens. Kebabs and shashlik are other staples in Azerbaijan.
Georgia's wine country
Crossing into Georgia, the Kakheti region is an area of beautiful green valleys, famous for its traditional wine production. Telavi has a raucous farmer's market while Tsinandalia is a historic estate once owned by the Georgian poet Chavchavadze. Its gardens are beautifully laid out in the English style. Nearby Alaverdi Cathedral is Georgia's tallest monastery and surrounded by a beautiful cypress grove.
While in the area, try some Zhghia, a naturally fermented dry red wine made from the rarest and highest quality Kakhetian grapes. The large earthenware vessels used for the fermentation, storage and ageing of traditional Georgian wine known as Qvevri are inscribed by UNESCO in its list of world's intangible cultural heritage. And while tasting some of the wines, perhaps catch some polyphonic songs prevalent in the region.
Tbilisi, Georgia's capital
Going further west you reach Tbilisi, Georgia's capital. While here be sure to visit the National Museum, the National Gallery, and the city's many churches.. Ride the cable car up to Narikala Fortress for fine views of the Old Town. While in Tbilisi take some time to relax in a sulphur bath or try some local food in one of its many quirky cafes; khinkali are Georgia's famous dumplings. Or have some khachapuri, a traditional Georgian dish of cheese-filled bread while lobio is a mixture of beans, coriander, walnuts, garlic, and onion.
Near Tblisi lies Mtskheta, the ancient capital and religious centre of Georgia and home to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, one of Georgia’s most important religious monuments. Nearby Jvari Monastery offers great views of the town below.
Into the Caucasus
Travelling north from the capital, The Georgian Military Highway is a historic route through the Caucasus Mountains linking Georgia with Russia. It is a stunning mountain road, culminating for most travellers in the view of Tsminda Sameba (a.k.a. Gergeti Trinity) Church, set against the backdrop of towering Mount Kazbek. Stunningly located on a hilltop overlooking the snowy peaks of the Caucasus, it makes for a great destination for a hike.
Going west into Georgia
West of Tbilisi, the town of Gori is home to the Stalin museum, the Soviet dictator who was born here. The museum lays homage to its most famous son, conveniently overlooking many of the horrors he perpetrated. Nearby, the cave city of Uplistsikhe is one of the oldest settlements in the region.
Keep on travelling west to reach one of Georgia's most famous sights, the cave town of Vardzia is cut into towering cliffs. Over 500 caves, home to churches, halls, and wine cellars, are all connected by tunnels and stairways. Further west still, the UNESCO listed monastery at Gelati is one of Georgia's most important churches. Gelati turned out many great thinkers and the main Cathedral has some of the best-preserved frescoes in the country.
Of watch towers and beaches
Going north next, you travel into the Caucasus mountains to reach the Svaneti region, famous for its tower-houses, built to protect villagers during times of invasion. Mestia is the main town here and its Ethnography Museum is well worth a visit, while the surrounding area makes for great hiking.
Finally, Batumi is located on the shores of the Black Sea, and set against a backdrop of pretty mountains. It was one of the premiere seaside resorts of the USSR. Its parks, fountains and beaches are still popular with locals while the cable car up a local mountain affords fine views of the city.
South into Armenia
Turning back to Tbilisi, travel south into Armenia to the two Byzantine monasteries at Haghpat. These are listed by UNESCO on account of their outstanding ecclesiastical architecture, blending Byzantine and local styles.
Next on the itinerary would be picturesque Dilijan, famed for its well-preserved 18th century houses and tis local handicraft studios. From here it is a short journey to Lake Sevan, one of the largest high-altitude lakes in the world. With its backdrop of mountains it is known for its ever-changing hues.
Yerevan and Armenia's monasteries
Yerevan, Armenia's capital is a town where old meets new and traditional meets designer-chic. Be sure to visit its History Museum and the Genocide Memorial & Museum. And spend time in its many outdoor cafes where locals come to linger and where you can try khoravats (barbecue meats), oghee (fruit vodka) and delicious fresh flat bread, known locally as lovash. Perhaps have it with tomatoes and goat cheese and have some gata (coffee cake) for dessert. .
Not too far from Yerevan are some of the many monasteries Armenia is famous for: the 12th century UNESCO listed Geghard Monastery, which is carved out of a cliff, Khor Virap Monastery, offering beautiful views of Mount Ararat, and Noravank Monastery, especially beautiful in the evening when the red cliffs surrounding it, light up in the setting sun. Entering a monastery is like stepping back to the beginning of time. Be awed by the mystery and perhaps attend a service complete with magical choral hymns and chants. You may even catch someone playing the duduk, a flute-like instrument listed on the UNESCO intangible Cultural Heritage List.
An unexpected finale to your journey is the Hellenistic temple at Garni, built in the first century and dedicated to the God of the Sun.
When to go
The best times to travel to Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan are April through June and September and October, when the weather is mild. May is the best month for hiking and also a time when flowers bloom. Fall is a good time to try fresh produce. Snow can fall in the mountains as early as October and last until April. Summers are very hot while winters can be quite cold.
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