An adventure travel consultant's personal review of Intrepid Travel's Highlights of Malta & Gozo
- Adventure Coordinators
- 2 days ago
- 8 min read
I recently joined Intrepid Travel for an exploration of the Mediterranean islands of Malta and Gozo. Here is my personal review of Intrepid Travel's Highlights of Malta & Gozo.
Valletta: The City of Knights
Our first day began with a ferry ride from Sliema, the lively town where our hotel was, to Valletta, Malta’s glorious capital. From the deck, the view was pure magic — fortresses rising from the sea, their golden limestone glowing in the morning light. It was a great start to a nice trip.
After disembarking we walked up into town, where we started with a coffee and chocolate tasting — the olive oil chocolate was unexpectedly delicious, the pepper chocolate even more intriguing.
Then came a short orientation walk. Our tour leader Spartaco, a gregarious and personable Italian, took us to the Upper Barrakka Gardens, a lovely terrace overlooking the Grand Harbour, framed by cannons and palm trees. From there, Valletta’s tight grid of streets stretched before us, each one lined with honey-coloured balconies and ornate door knockers. From here we were to cross the hearbour for a walk around the Three Cities. Curiously Spartaco skipped this part and instead showed us to a place to have lunch - a lively food hall filled with aromas from around the world. I opted for Maltese fare — a wonderful sampler plate full of bold, rustic flavours.
We had a free afternoon and I joined a few others from our group for a visit to St. John’s Co-Cathedral. I’ve seen many churches in my travels, but this one was unlike any other. Its marble floor is a mosaic of tombstones, and the gilded ceiling seems to shimmer from every angle. The highlight, though, was Caravaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist, whose raw emotion was as powerful as the story that surrounds it.
Larer on I joined up with fellow Intrepid traveller Mary, a 78-year-old from Australia, and together we explored more of Valletta — the Design Cluster, the Fort of Saint Elmo, and the poignant exhibits on Malta’s wartime history. By sunset we were back at the Barrakka Gardens, watching the sky turn pink over the Three Cities while sharing a table (and stories) with two German couples.
Dinner that night was in a traditional restaurant — local sausages, Maltese wine, and the pleasant exhaustion that comes after a full day of walking and discovery.
Ancient Temples and Hilltop Cities
The next morning, we crossed the island by private vehicle with a local guide. Our first stop was Marsaxlokk, a colourful fishing village that felt more touristy than authentic. There were more stalls selling touristy souvenirs than there were rainbow-painted boats, which the town is famous for.
We enjoyed a boat trip to the Blue Grotto, but most impressive that morning were the prehistoric temples at Ħaġar Qim — older even than Stonehenge. Standing among those massive limestone slabs, I couldn’t help imagining the people who built them 5,000 years ago, their rituals, their faith, their connection to the land.
Lunch followed in a local restaurant — hearty soup, a simple main, and a dessert of biscuits soaked in amaretto. Then we continued to Mdina, Malta’s ancient capital. Inside its honey-coloured walls, the city felt timeless. Tourists filled the narrow streets, but in quiet corners I found calm — the cool shade of a courtyard, a moment alone with a perfect scoop of ice cream.
By sunset we were boarding the ferry to Gozo, Malta’s smaller sister island. As the sun sank into the sea, the sky turned orange and violet, the lights of Gozo flickering in the distance.
Gozo: Island Life and Coastal Hikes
On Gozo we stayed in a comfortable hotel on the waterfront in Marsalforn, in off-season a quiet seaside town where fishing boats rock gently in the bay.
After a long day, I unpacked, showered, and led a few of my fellow travellers to a local seafood restaurant. My meal — swordfish carpaccio and seafood linguine with a crisp Spanish Sauvignon Blanc — was superb. A gelato on the walk back made for the perfect nightcap.
The next morning dawned clear and bright. After breakfast, we set out along Gozo’s northern coast for a scenic walk. The cliffs were rugged and dramatic, with views stretching endlessly over the blue Mediterranean. The path was lined with old stone walls and small hunting hides, evidence of a controversial local pastime.
At one point, we reached a stretch of wind-carved sandstone, golden and rippled like frozen waves. It was beautiful and they inspired us to take some playful photographs.
Near the end of the hike, a watchtower from the era of the Knights of Malta stood guard over the sea — a silent witness to centuries of storms and invasions.
We finished in the village of Xlendi, where I braved a quick swim in the cool, salty water — refreshing and invigorating after the heat of the trail. Later, we stopped at David’s Bakery in Victoria (also known as Rabat) to sample local treats: pastizzi filled with ricotta, ftira topped with tuna and peppers, and a bright green cassata Siciliana that was too tempting to resist.
From there, we climbed up to the Citadel. Its fortified walls offered sweeping views over Gozo’s patchwork fields and numerous villages. Inside, I explored the cathedral, admired the intricate baroque detail, and lingered in the museum’s small but engaging exhibits.
Back in town, I found a shady café near St. George’s Basilica. The elderly woman selling tickets at the church had made me laugh earlier, calling me “beautiful face” — the kind of charming, unfiltered compliment that stays with you. My limoncello spritz that followed was sweet, strong, and perfectly paired with easy conversation among new friends.
A Vineyard Sunset
The following day was a free one. Our leader, Spartaco, decided to join me for a walk I had charted toward Ramla Bay. Interestingly I had to sign a waiver to join the hike I had organized, absolving him and Intrepid of any responsibility. He had us sign waivers each time we opted out of an organized portion of the tour as well, something that came as a bit of a surprise.
It was a nice morning though. After hiking through farmland, we stopped for espresso in the hilltop town of Xagħra, then carried on past quiet roads and stone terraces to the coast. From a lookout, we saw that the beach was small and windswept, so we turned west, hiking over a ridge until we found a secluded spot to swim. The sea was cool but beautiful, the kind of spontaneous detour that makes travel so rewarding.
That evening, we visited Tal-Massar Winery, a small, family-run estate surrounded by vineyards and golden hills. The owner led us on a short tour before seating us at a large table laid with local cheeses and cured meats. Then came the wine — four bottles, shared among three people each. You can imagine how that went. The laughter grew louder, the stories taller, and the night blurred pleasantly around the edges. It was one of those travel moments where time seems to slow down — where strangers become friends over food, wine, and the shared joy of being in a new place far from home.
Salt Pans and Sliema Nights
The next day began lazily with breakfast and a morning swim. Later, we walked north to the salt pans near Marsalforn, where locals still harvest sea salt by hand. The wife of the couple who work the pans explained the process as we stood perched above the shimmering pools, sunlight glinting off the water. I bought a small bag of her salt — a souvenir far more meaningful than anything bought from a gift shop.
Our leader decided, again, to skip the next part of the itinerary, a swim stop at Wied il-Għasri, which was disappointing, as several guidebooks rave about it. It made me all the more grateful for the swims I had done these past days.
We caught the fast ferry back to Valletta — a choppy ride across open water that left me both drowsy and exhilarated.
After arriving in Valletta we had to travel the 30 minutes back to the hotel in Sliema to drop our bags - it was too early to check in. Intrepid using a hotel in out-of-the-way Sliema was in my opinion not the best idea, but perhaps a reflection of the "original" tour style, which tends to focus on local travel experiences while keeping the cost low.
With a few hours left, I took the ferry back across to Valletta to explore the Grand Masters’ Palace, its ornate halls filled with art and history. Then, wandering through town, I stumbled upon a record shop playing Pink Floyd’s The Great Gig in the Sky. (If you are not familiar with this piece, watch the incredible live recording here).
I stood outside, gelato in hand, letting the music wash over me — one of those memorable, perfect travel moments. Across the street, a café beckoned, so I sat for an espresso as Comfortably Numb played through the speakers. It was a quietly poetic end to my time in Valletta.
Birgu: Malta’s Hidden Gem
With an extra day before flying home, I decided to visit Birgu, one of the historic Three Cities across Grand Harbour and the part that had been omitted on day 1 of our tour.
Getting there took a combination of ferries and patience, but it was worth every minute - it turned out to be the highlight of my time in Malta.
I began at Fort St. Angelo, a massive fortress that once guarded Grand Harbour. The upper levels were quiet and green, with gardens, fountains, and shaded benches — a peaceful escape from the bustle that is Valletta.
From there, I wandered through the old town, stopping at St. Lawrence Church before settling at a small café on Victory Square. The owners were warm and welcoming, and I lingered over a long lunch watching locals chat in the sun.
Birgu felt different from Valletta: quieter, more authentic, with narrow lanes and weathered doorways that spoke of centuries past. There were no tourist trinkets here, just the hum of everyday life.
For me, it was the highlight of the trip — a reminder that the best discoveries often happen when you follow your instincts rather than a guidebook.
Later, I took a small boat back across the harbour, riding the gentle waves beneath Valletta’s golden ramparts. I ended my Maltese journey at the Upper Barrakka Gardens once more, this time with an Aperol spritz in hand, the sun setting over the same view that had welcomed me days earlier.
My opinion of the Intrepid tour
While I have always been a big fan of Intrepid, this tour did have a few flaws, mostly due to the changes made by the tour leader. If you go on this tour, be sure to add an extra day for your own explorations and come with managed expectations: these islands are more like the bustle of southern Italy than they are like the idyllic Greek Islands.
Nevertheless I rate this tour a 7 out of 10. It offered a mix of fascinating history, scenic hikes, and warm island hospitality. From Valletta’s golden fortresses and Caravaggio’s masterpieces to Gozo’s rugged cliffs and quiet villages, every day brought a new highlight. I loved exploring ancient temples older than Stonehenge, swimming in hidden coves, and sharing laughter over wine at a family-run vineyard. The islands are perfect for travellers who enjoy history, culture, and great food.
You can find the itinerary for this trip here.
Comments